How This 100% Plant-Based Restaurant Is Rethinking The Dining Model
Chef Deborah Mullin on Little Saint’s farm-driven approach—plus a party at The Lore, San Francisco’s new 10-seat tasting salon, and a Livermore Valley wine getaway guide
New + Hot in the Bay with Chey
I’m a San Francisco Bay Area food journalist veteran sharing where I’ve been eating, what’s new, and what’s actually worth booking—plus conversations with the chefs shaping the dining scene.
The Amuse Bouche
May is a crazy month of celebrations: it’s my mom’s, my sister’s, and my birthdays—plus, of course, Mother’s Day.
To kick it all off, I co-hosted a private party at one of the city’s most under-the-radar new fine dining spots: The Lore. There’s no posted address and no public menu—and each night seats just 10 guests. It’s the newest endeavor from Chef Seth Stowaway, former chef-owner of Osito, a live-fire concept that earned him his first Michelin star. The experience unfolds less like a traditional tasting menu and more like a narrative-driven rendezvous surrounded by your best friends!
The space is cozy and intimate, centered around an open kitchen and wood-fired hearth where you can watch 18–20 courses come to life. Each dish is tied to a story—pulling from his origins, sense of place, and sourcing—and transforms what could be a standard (albeit excellent) fine dining experience into something fun, approachable, and distinctly personal. Chef Seth brings a very real, down-to-earth and lively grit that can be felt throughout the all-wood tasting salon.
The menu changes constantly with the seasons and his inspiration, but highlights from the night included king salmon with blood orange and pistachio; beef tartare with anchovy and pear; and a jasmine honey flan with crab, caviar, and English pea—plus about a dozen other courses, all meticulously plated right in front of us.
Experiences like that are a reminder that the most interesting restaurants right now aren’t just focused on what’s on the plate—they’re building entire ecosystems around how we eat. It left me thinking about how much the structure of a restaurant can completely shape the way a meal unfolds.
That’s exactly what I dug into for this week’s feature: a conversation with executive chef Deborah Mullin of Little Saint, where the experience begins at the farm and carries through every part of the restaurant.
The Tasty Dish: Chef Deborah Mullin on Building Little Saint’s Farm-to-Table Ecosystem
At Little Saint, the idea of a restaurant operates far beyond a traditional restaurant model. It operates as a multi-layered space where dining, music, and community programming intersect—grounded in a plant-based philosophy and meaningful connection to regenerative agriculture.
That approach shows up in how the menu comes together. Rather than starting with a fixed concept, the kitchen builds around what’s coming out of the farm—using techniques like fermentation and layering to create dishes that feel both precise and expressive of place. The result is a system that prioritizes intention and adaptability over convention.
I caught up with Chef Deborah Mullin to talk about developing a farm-driven menu, expanding what plant-based cooking can look like, and how she approaches building a restaurant rooted in both creativity and responsibility. Here’s what she had to say.
What brought you to Little Saint? Describe how the experience has been thus far for you?
What drew me to Little Saint was the opportunity to be part of something that reimagines what hospitality can be. It’s not just a restaurant, it’s a cultural and lifestyle destination where food, music, community, and creative expression all come together in a meaningful way.
The commitment to plant-based cuisine, regenerative agriculture, and values-driven decision-making aligns deeply with how I think about the future of food. I was also drawn to the complexity of the model—a restaurant, market, coffee bar, wine shop, cocktail bar, events venue—all operating together with a shared purpose.
My background as a chef, restaurateur, and store manager leading large teams in the natural and organic grocery retail sector translates well into this kind of multifaceted environment, where you’re balancing creativity with operational discipline and an entrepreneurial mindset.
The experience has been incredibly meaningful. We’re in a constant state of evolution—refining menus, deepening our connection to the farm, and building systems that support both innovation and consistency. There’s a strong sense of shared intention across the whole team, and that translates directly to the guest experience.
It’s very much about aligning purpose with providing compelling experiences and passionate hospitality—creating something that is inspiring, inclusive, community-oriented, and operationally sound.
What are you currently growing at the Little Saint Farm? How are you using it on the menu at Little Saint?
We’re in a beautiful spring transition at the farm right now. The Little Saint farm team is harvesting tender greens, chicories, mustards, fresh herbs, and early root vegetables like carrots, radishes, and turnips. Spring peas are just beginning to come in, strawberries are arriving early, and we’re seeing a strong showing of bok choy. Herbs like cilantro, mint, and dill are especially vibrant and show up across the menu in sauces, salads, and garnishes.
At Little Saint, the farm is the foundation of the menu. We’re not just sourcing ingredients, we’re building dishes around them. That means highlighting the integrity of what’s grown while applying classical culinary techniques from fermentation, culturing, and layering to bring depth, texture, and balance to plant-based cuisine.
What can diners expect from the new Spring menu? What dishes are you most excited about and why?
The Spring menu at Little Saint is bright, layered, and driven by what’s coming off our farm and from local producers. It’s built around freshness, acidity, and balance, moving from morning to night and spanning both sweet and savory expressions.
On the savory side, I’m especially excited about our herb-forward salads and composed bowls, where elements like preserved lemon vinaigrette and fermented Omero cabbage bring brightness, depth, and complexity. A great example is our Mediterranean Bowl, featuring our signature Swiss chard falafel—made with rainbow chard from Little Saint Farm—alongside tofu feta, herb-packed green tabbouleh, red beet hummus, and housemade tzatziki flecked with pickled kohlrabi.
On the sweet side, our pastry and bread program continues to push creativity and low-waste thinking, utilizing citrus zests, grating misshapen vegetables, and incorporating parts of plants that might otherwise be discarded.
Our Rainbow Carrot Cake is a great example—a decadently gluten-free, seven-layer cake with grated rainbow carrots folded in “funfetti”-style alongside bright flecks of lemon zest, filled with yuzu curd and a lemon balm buttercream infused with housemade lemon balm oil.
The menu reflects our broader culinary philosophy drawing from global influences while staying grounded in a distinctly Sonoma County, California-forward perspective, with Little Saint farm guiding our menu creation decisions and a circular hospitality model in place of a traditional linear one.
What does plant-forward eating and sustainability mean to you?
Plant-forward eating, to me, is about possibility. It’s exploring the full range of flavor, texture, and nourishment that plants can offer in a way that feels abundant, not restrictive.
Sustainability is about being intentional with every step. At Little Saint, we operate with a circular mindset: grow, utilize, reuse, recycle—with a goal of zero waste. In practice, that means cooking in sync with the farm, using ingredients fully and creatively, and making decisions that support the health of our soil, our community, and the broader ecosystem.
How do you want diners to feel when they leave Little Saint?
I want guests to leave Little Saint feeling nourished, energized, and inspired—like they’ve discovered something both joyful and thought-provoking. Little Saint is rooted in connection: to the food, the environment, and a more intentional way of dining that supports people and planet. It’s about creating a place that not only excites in the moment, but one that guests want to return to and make part of their everyday lives.
What do you think makes Little Saint anniversary month and Earth Month so exciting for guests?
We’ve turned our anniversary, which falls on Earth Day, into something we call B-Earth Day—it’s a natural reflection of who we are. It brings together everything we care about: celebrating another year of Little Saint while honoring our commitment to sustainability, community, and a more circular approach to hospitality. Through special menus, collaborations, and programming, we’re able to show how food can be both indulgent and impactful—all while creating a sense of energy and connection that defines this time of year.
Anything else you would like to share with readers about what’s current and/or on the horizon for Little Saint?
We’re really excited about our expanding chef collaborations, bringing together vegan and non-vegan chefs to push the boundaries of plant-based cooking. It’s all about creativity, new perspectives, and showing just how exciting this style of dining can be.
Want to know what to expect? Here’s a look at my Little Saint experience.
Know a chef I should talk to next? Tell me in the comments!
New + Hot in the Bay
Openings, launches, collaborations, and pop-ups worth having on your radar this week.
Meyhouse — San Ramon
Meyhouse Restaurant Group opens its first East Bay location at City Center Bishop Ranch, a new 5,200-square-foot destination bringing elevated Turkish cuisine alongside Meyhouse Jazz, the center’s first dedicated live music venue.The Post Room — Union Square
The Post Room at the Beacon Grand debuts a new French brasserie-inspired menu alongside a more intimate, salon-style setting. With additions like seafood bouillabaisse and a grand ricotta pancake, it’s a strong reason to revisit one of Union Square’s longtime staples.Corzetti — Union Square
Corzetti brings back its limited-time Afternoon Tea with an Italian twist, pairing curated teas and Lambrusco with a mix of sweet and savory bites like chocolate budino and veal parm meatballs. This is your last chance to try it before it ends on May 10.Tried something new in the Bay recently that I should know about? Send it my way.
Worth Watching
Restaurants and experiences I featured on Instagram this week.
Aldas Kitchen & Bakery - This hole-in-the-wall offers the authentic Filipino comfort food I grew up with and delicious ube desserts.
The Lore - What to expect from a dining experience at Chef Seth Stowaway’s new tasting salon, The Lore.
SF AAPI Cocktail Week - Here’s a rundown of what events you should have on your radar.
Check out the full reels over on Instagram ↓
Book This, Order That
If you only take a few recommendations from this week’s newsletter, make it these:
Book This
Angler — Embarcadero
A one-night-only AAPI Month fundraiser dinner on May 18 at one Michelin-starred Angler featuring executive chef Joe Hou of Angler, joined by chef David Yoshimura of Nisei and chef Gizela Ho of Good Morning 96, blending Japanese American, California, and global influences. The $248 menu is designed as a collaborative tasting rooted in heritage and technique, with a portion of proceeds benefiting Asians Are Strong. Limited availability—book here.
Nisei — Russian Hill
One Michelin-starred Nisei closes out their AAPI Chef Celebration Series with a two-night special collaboration dinner on May 30th and 31st with David Yoshimura, and Dae Kim formerly of Noksu in New York, whose background in Michelin-starred kitchens and Korean heritage brings a precise, modern perspective to the menu. The $437.50 experience includes a 13-course tasting (18+ bites) with Dassai Blue sake pairings, with 5% of proceeds supporting Bay Resistance. Limited availability—book here.
Order That
Beef and Guinness pie - Dingles Public House
If you’ve ever been wronged by British food, consider this your reset—head to the recently opened Dingles Public House and order the beef and Guinness pie. It’s hearty, has a flaky crust and a rich, meaty filling that hits the spot. And the addition of bone marrow takes it to a whole new level of decadence. Plus it comes with a side of thick mashed potatoes, perfect for soaking up all the sauces.
Drinking My Way Through: Livermore Valley
Did you know Livermore Valley is one of the oldest wine regions in the country, dating back to the 1800s? It is—and after spending 48 hours here, I’m surprised more people aren’t talking about it. Located just 45 miles from San Francisco, it’s an easy, no-stress wine country escape with over 40 wineries to explore.
I maximized a quick two-day trip tasting my way through the region. There’s genuinely something for everyone here—and it doesn’t feel overly polished or crowded, which is part of the appeal.
Here’s where to go:
McGrail Vineyards & Winery — Known for its award-winning Cabernet and sweeping vineyard views, this is the kind of place you come to linger—whether that’s on the patio, over live music, or a game of bocce.
Las Positas Vineyards — A family-owned winery focused on small-lot, estate-grown wines, with a strong culinary program—our tasting and tapas experience here was a standout.
Mitchell Katz Winery — A longtime Livermore staple producing small-batch wines in a relaxed, ranch-style setting, with estate-grown Chardonnay worth seeking out.
Wood Family Vineyards — More than just wine—this is a go-to for live music and a laid-back tasting room vibe that makes it easy to stay longer than planned.
The Steven Kent Winery — A go-to for Cabernet Sauvignon, but also experimenting with more unexpected expressions like white and rosé Cabernet Francs.
Murrieta’s Well — Dating back to 1884, this historic estate blends sustainable winemaking with an elevated tasting and lunch experience—one of the better spots to actually sit down and slow things down mid-day.
Concannon Vineyard — One of the most historically significant wineries in the region, and home to America’s first Petite Sirah.
Where to Stay? Purple Orchid Resort & Spa — Surrounded by vineyards and rose gardens, this is the kind of place you check into after a full day of tastings and don’t want to leave. Think spacious, country-style suites, a relaxing spa, and a complimentary breakfast worth taking the time to enjoy (coming from an “I’ll just take coffee” type of morning person).
If you’re looking for a wine country weekend that actually feels easy—but still delivers on quality, history, and variety—Livermore Valley is one to have on your radar.
P.S. May is Livermore Valley Wine Month! Check THIS LINK to find out all of the details from the month and events to have on your radar. One to keep in mind? Uncorked! The region’s premier annual wine showcase returning to McGrail Vineyards & Winery. Every wine poured will have earned a Gold Medal or higher at the California Signature Wine Awards. For more info, click here.
Don’t Miss Next Week’s Post
Next week, I’m sitting down with Brandon Jew, the chef behind one Michelin-starred Mister Jiu’s, as he wraps up a series of collaborative banquet dinners bringing together some of the most thoughtful voices shaping Chinese cuisine right now.
We get into how these multi-chef menus actually come together, what it means to balance tradition with a modern, regional perspective, and why Chinese American cuisine is still very much evolving—both here in the Bay and on a global stage.
We also talk about the bigger picture: raising the bar after recognition, mentoring the next generation, and the level of precision behind dishes like their signature Peking duck—which takes over a week to prepare.
If you’re paying attention to how Chinese food is evolving right now—or want a closer look at what it takes to operate at this level—this is one you won’t want to miss.